AKA Germany is delicious! Schwarzwald took good care of us this week! It was rather last-minute planning, since the Dutch and Belgian coasts were appealing too. The prospect of great German food and Twin Peaks scenery is what got me out of my coastal break comfort zone.
Schwarzwald is touristy, so be warned. It’s kind of like Florida, where retirement-age folk congregate. When the mean age of the tourists we met were mid-60s to early 70s, we pretty much lowered the average!
Saying that, we were blessed with beautiful warm days on our trip, with bright cloudless skies. We overdosed on Käsespätzle, Rösti, Maultaschen, fresh pine-scented countryside air, the rolling hills and the Alpine huts dotting the landscape. We were too last-minute to score Kräuterwanderung (foraging walking tours) and foodie days at Baiersbronn, but I’m good for saving those for future trips.
Trigger warning for ridiculous food photos!
First up, a brief visit to Stuggi…
We met up with Andreas and his son, Mini Andreas, for Sunday breakfast. We ate at Tarte und Törtchen which met my requirements of eggs and bacon and satisfied our sweet tooth. No, really, check out their website: they specialise in cakes and it took all of my willpower not to order every cake they had on display.
Next up, Sunday dinner with Dominik.
We zipped down from Stuttgart in time to check into our hotel and then meet Dominik for Sunday dinner. I hadn’t seen him in a long while! Typically, I pick the place where we eat when we meet up (Düsseldorf, Berlin, Asian cuisine). His turn this time and we went German.
Home of Tannenzäpfle.
I totally remember my first Tannenzäpfle, at Schwarzwaldstuben in Linienstrasse x Tucholskystrasse in Berlin Mitte. It’s probably the one beer I drink the most, aside from Hoegaarden witbier. They’re based in southern Schwarzwald, where we ended up one lunchtime after a scenic drive.
Read about Rothaus on their Wikipedia page.
The racer boy scenic drive thing.
I’m not great at these drives because I get extremely carsick. One of these days I’m going to send the handsome-and-talented one to Stelvio Pass with Miss Weeza in a fast German car so they can fulfill their racer boy, racer girl dreams of zipping up and down hairpin bends. I’ll fly down to Milano and meet them there.
Andreas tipped us towards Franz Keller. While they were all booked out for the dates that we were in Schwarzwald, we did make it for dinner one evening after a leisurely scenic drive. We thoroughly enjoyed our dinner experience and would love to have the full Franz Keller experience in the future.
An afternoon trip to Alsace.
Andreas told us about a small fromagerie just over the border in France that was definitely worth a visit. After this visit, his foodie points just goes up and up. Srsly.
Fromagerie Antony in Vieux Ferrette.
Fromagerie Antony supplies cheese to many Michelin-starred restaurants all over the world. It was a 45-minute drive so we drove over one afternoon for one of their cheese tastings. Happiness is eating a beautiful cheese plate, paired with a chilled Gewürztraminer. I think we got a little high from the cheese because we didn’t stop smiling all day after that experience. The Gruyere and Livarot were Robert’s favourites, mine were the Citeaux and Coulommiers.
Happy serendipity: Brasserie Radwulf.
We were driving along the main village road when I noticed a sign for “micro brewery/craft beer”. The handsome-and-talented husband couldn’t make a U-turn fast enough. We followed the road and the signs, until we finally reached this out-of-the-way, edge of town warehouse. Naturally, I was sent out to investigate while he waited in the car. Typical.
Altes Spital for lazing around doing nothing.
We spent time just lazing around where we were staying, the Altes Spital Hotel, catching up on reading, Coursera lectures, Netflix series. It had a terrace where we could enjoy a beer with our reading and soak up some sun, and the restaurant was decent.
Both Andreas and Carsten had
mentioned positively raved about Wurstsalat and Fleischsalat. While I didn’t like the sound of it, I ordered it anyway for lunch one day. I thought I needed to step out of my comfort zone. Yeah, nope. No, no, no. No Fleischsalat or Wurstsalat for me. This dish joins Leberkäse and marzipan on the list of food I dislike.
Fleischsalat and Wurstsalat must be southern German things that I don’t understand. Like the separate duvets on double beds. I don’t get it. It’s one bed, two duvets. Why? Why would you share a bed with someone you don’t want to share a duvet with?
Last lunch in Schwarzwald.
Better make it count! So we went to the Blockhütte in Tonbach. We were super lucky with the weather, hot enough for us to strip to summer clothes and we even got tan lines on our arms afterwards. The scenery, the food, the fresh air, the sun, the handsome-and-talented husband, ah, the perfect lunch.
Friday beers with Carsten!
Ah, Carsten. What can I say? After interviewing him for Man in the Kitchen, somehow we didn’t stop talking. Fast forward some months later, he invited us for drinks at his home on our way back to Berlin. Sweet way to end the trip!